Jimmy Carr

A "roast" in this instance is a kind of good-natured ragging session: the elderly golfing enthusiast is mocked by a panel of comedians, all of whom seem as perplexed as he is as to what they're doing there. Jimmy Carr, not a performer known for his amiability, is the master of ceremonies, seemingly on his best behaviour while a panel including Jack Dee and Barry Cryer share their Brucie-based reminiscences.

The comedy "roast" is a US showbiz institution where "roastmasters" pay mocking tribute to a well-loved star. Now Channel 4 is introducing the tradition here. Jimmy Carr compères and the first subject is Bruce Forsyth. His wife, colleagues and comedians including Barry Cryer queue up to take pot shots at his career, golfing ability and age. A consummate pro, Forsyth takes it all on that unmistakeable chin.

Although it might not sound it, a roast is the ultimate honour for any entertainer. First started at the New York Friars' Club in the 1920s and made famous by Dean Martin on his TV show in the 1960s and 1970s, a roast involves you sitting in a room with your friends, family and colleagues as they mercilessly take the mickey out of you - goodnatured bullying, as the host Jimmy Carr calls it. There are three roasts this week - don't miss Sharon Osbourne's on Thursday and Chris Tarrant on Friday - but first up is Mr Showbusiness himself, Bruce Forsyth. Lining up to pay mocking tribute are Jack Dee, Jason Manford, Bruno Tonioli, Arlene Phillips, Jon Culshaw, Barry Cryer and, best of all, Jonathan Ross. It may be sycophantic, but there are still some hilarious moments.

Channel 4 has imported the American comedy tradition of "roasting" a much-loved star with a series of cruel tributes. It's like watching a sequence of well-honed Best Man's speeches, delivered to an audience of eager showbiz folk in the kind of chandeliered room usually kept for awards ceremonies. Starting with Bruce Forsyth as the victim means a range of open goals to aim at, the main one being Brucie's age. "Many say that a knighthood is long overdue," observes host Jimmy Carr. "After all, so many of his contemporaries have been honoured. [Pause] Lancelot, Galahad, Percival..." There are quips about his golf handicap, his love of tea, his many catchphrases, his much younger wife, while Brucie himself wheezes with obliging laughter on the sidelines. And with three standing ovations, didn't he do well?

Unlike the US version of this show, which can be shockingly vicious and unpleasant (see Joan Rivers's on Monday), there's something rather comforting about Channel 4's effort, which sees tribute paid to Bruce Forsyth through mockery. Despite host Jimmy Carr giving off his usual warmth (reptile in outdoor bath, mid-Siberian winter), it's like watching a series of best man's speeches.

Jonathan Ross, Jack Dee and Barry Cryer all step up to wheel out jokes about how old Brucie is, how rubbish his early career was and how young his wife is. It does sound like irritating vieux chapeau - but it's done with enough classy lines to pass the time. In a comforting way.

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