Barry McDonald

Steve Coogan and Rob Brydon have struck gold with this new series. Not only is it a breath of fresh air in the schedules, it also looks like the most fun two pals can ever have making a television programme.

The two protagonists are filmed chewing the fat and gulping down first-class food on a culinary tour of the north of England. How hard can life be?

What's that? A script? Oh, there's no script, this is improvised so there's no need to worry about your lines. Just sit back, scoff the delicious scran, knock back a glass or two of Pinot Grigio and let the banter flow.

It's a conversation which has probably been heard countless times before in every pub in the country. Two mates, chatting and making each other laugh, when one says: "You know what, we should be on the telly, this is great stuff, funnier than half the rubbish on the box." Only this time, Steve Coogan and Rob Brydon had the clout to actually make it into a show.

The premise is Rob and Steve, playing themselves, review restaurants for a Sunday paper. It was planned as a romantic trip for Steve and his girlfriend but after she dumped him he's forced to call upon his pal Rob to join him.

Instead of candlelight dinners and seductive musings, we have two mates discussing the questions of life over a chocolate pudding.

Fans of Michael Winterbottom's A Cock and Bull Story will be familiar with the format (it also featured the pair playing themselves). For those unfamiliar with the film, just think of a cross between Curb Your Enthusiasm and the Great British Menu with a light dusting of The Office.

Barry McDonald, The Herald, 1st November 2010