Electrical Safety Advice

I need to give my washing machine a bloody good servicing but obviously not in a sexual way. I might dabble with that idea later on but not when it's in such a poorly maintained state and I could catch all sorts. I've been using it for 18 months without ever cleaning the filters or running an empty wash cycle and yesterday when I removed the detergent drawer for the first time I noticed thick black gunk that probably runs all through the machine. It was digusting and made me wonder how much bacteria is on my 'clean' clothes.

I've downloaded the PFD manual for the washing machine and there are several filters and pipes that can be removed and cleaned but it involves pulling out the washing machine to turn off the water supply. The electrical plug for the washing machine is just an on/off button on the wall with no way of removing the plug because there isn't one. From a safety point to avoid the risk of electrocution is just turning the button off enough when pulling out the machine and removing components or should I turn off the supply to the socket from the main fuse box because there's no way to unplug the washing machine from the wall socket?

I'm pretty sure if you check the terms and conditions for your appliance it will state clearly that performing any maintenance on the machine based on advise gained from comedy based Internet forums will void the warranty

Quote: lofthouse @ 28th January 2018, 9:37 PM

I'm pretty sure if you check the terms and conditions for your appliance it will state clearly that performing any maintenance on the machine based on advise gained from comedy based Internet forums will void the warranty

View original

Top Tip

Quote: lofthouse @ 28th January 2018, 9:37 PM

I'm pretty sure if you check the terms and conditions for your appliance it will state clearly that performing any maintenance on the machine based on advise gained from comedy based Internet forums will void the warranty

View original

Quote: Definitely Tarby @ 28th January 2018, 9:31 PM

From a safety point to avoid the risk of electrocution is just turning the button off enough NO!! when pulling out the machine and removing components or should I turn off the supply to the socket from the main fuse box because there's no way to unplug the washing machine from the wall socket?

View original

NEVER EVER WORK ON ANYTHING ELECTRICAL THAT IT STILL PLUGGED IN !!

Presumably it is wired into a power source on the wall so AFTER knocking that socket out at the fuse box unwire the machine at that spur point - it might have a fuse in it, which you can remove. Then at least you can maintain the power around the house by putting the fuse back in/switching the trip back on.

Just checked the small print and comedy based internet forums is indeed listed as a prohibited source of maintenence advice so thanks for the heads up. The list is extensive but there's no mention of Owls although I've no interest in them so that's not helpful. I like them but not enough to join an online forum about them.

It depends on how old your wiring is Tarby but there are strict regulations and 'best practices' concerning power to washing machines, dishwashers and under sink appliances.

Firstly, the circuit should be protected with an RCD back at the consumer unit (fusebox as you call it) (RCD = residual current device) This automatically disconnects the power in the event of an earth fault (ie water getting in the electrics - or even, you touching a live wire)

Secondly, Your washing machine should be plugged into a 13A socket (they come new with a sealed 13A plug already fitted by law - so there's a clue)
The switch (or button as you refer to) should be what they call a double pole isolating switch (it breaks both the live and neutral when turned of) and this should isolate the washing machine socket - not have the flex connected directly to it.

The problem is; the electrical regulations have changed for the worse and put dangerous electrical practices right into the hands of the cowboys.
A joiner or handyman can take a 1 day course and become what they call a Part P qualified electrician.
This allows them to do minor electrical work like connecting boilers, washing machines and waste disposal machines to the mains supply.
In reality, they fit kitchens and electrics at the same time. Wiring their own supplies to everything in any old fashion.
They hide all their bad work behind the cupboards and in recesses. Hopefully to never be seen again.
On electrical forums there are thousands of stories of what proper electricians have found lurking there.

Isolate at the mains; You don't know what you might find behind the washing machine when you pull it out.

Take your washing down to the creek n bash it with a rock like a normal person

nice one Lofty.

*yaks like Sid James.

Quote: Hercules Grytpype Thynne @ 29th January 2018, 12:17 AM

NEVER EVER WORK ON ANYTHING ELECTRICAL THAT IT STILL PLUGGED IN !!

Presumably it is wired into a power source on the wall so AFTER knocking that socket out at the fuse box unwire the machine at that spur point - it might have a fuse in it, which you can remove. Then at least you can maintain the power around the house by putting the fuse back in/switching the trip back on.

View original

I take heed of the warning, cheers Herc. I knew I couldn't just rely on turning it off on the wall and needed to hear it. My fusebox has a trip switch that isolates the kitchen which turns off power to all plug sockets including the two hard wired ones (washing machine and cooker) so I'm planning on turning that off before pulling the machine out.

Sigh

Quote: Stephen Goodlad @ 30th January 2018, 9:23 PM

Sigh

View original

I was in the process of replying to your advice which I thought would aproove of turning off the fuse but I'm guessing perhaps not. Should I turn off the main power switch on the fusebox and not just rely on turning off the isolator switch for the kitchen? I'm thinking it might be better if I pay for an engineer to come out and service the machine as they will know about turning off power and water supplies.

It's worrying that someone can be certified to wire up boilers after a one day course. I thought standards were better than that.

Wear a hi viz jacket, employ a female engineer (on the same salary as a male/gay/trans colleague, obviously), ensure any instructions are NOT fake news, and in the event of any mishaps-blame Brexit.

Golden rule of electric things.: If you have to ask how, you had best not do it yourself.

The Trip switches in a distribution box only switch off the live side. I think. To isolate it properly you would need to throw over the main switch that feeds all the trip switches.

I think you had best employ a qualified electrician and get him/her to install a 13 amp socket in place of the existing 'hole-in-the-wall' connector and to fit a proper 13 amp plug ion the machine so that you can easily and safely disconnect the machine the NEXT time you want to clean it out.